Overview of Olympus Fashion Week Fall 2006 Collections by Phat Guru
It's still winter, we've already shopped for the springtime and we're looking ahead and thinking about what we'll wear in the fall. That's what it takes to stay hip, got it? Oh, and a sense of fun, too. Can't forget that. If we didn't love fashion so much, such dedication might be a grind, but it's a labor of love and nowhere was this more evident than in the Olympus Fashion Week New York for Fall 2006. The PhatGuru team hobnobbed and partied with the best of them, but when it came to what really counts, we were all-eyes-up-front to take in as much as we could to share with our readers. And we've got a lot to share. The fur is going to fly in '06, but not from anger. We'll see fur collars and trim on gloves and coats. Always a lovely look and just what we need to cut the chill when the winter returns. We might need matching umbrellas, too, in case PETA launches a paint attack. (Kidding!) Another trend noted were slightly mannish, 1940's looks in various jackets, sweaters - worn with wedge heels. This boxy look is pulled off in toned down browns, beiges, and
grays. The working idea here is versatility and not needing to buy whole outfits, so you can wear these pieces with what you already have in your closet. Simply put, more smart choices for the smart girl. The weather was mild enough, the styles were wild enough, and this autumn's look was pure New York. Perfect for PhatGuru and fashion fans alike. RED DRESS The Red Dress Collection was such an Olympus Fashion Week treat! The celebrities were wonderful, the designers were generous, but the real star of the show was the spirit. The fashion industry came together to raise awareness for the leading killer of women in America - heart disease. But the seriousness of the subject matter didn't let anyone feel blue - not at Red Dress! The Tent at Bryant Park was roared with life. The celebrities modeling included Lindsay Lohan, Nelly Furtado, Lee Ann Womack, Fergie, Jossie Perez, Deborah Harry, Natasha Bedingfield, Kelly Rowland, Cheryl Bentyne, Eartha Kitt, Emmylou Harris, Yolanda Adams, Christina Milian, Bebe Neuwirth, Jojo, Patti Hansen, Sheryl Crow, Audra McDonald, Amerie, Michelle Phillips, Thalia, Leann Rimes and Elaine Stritch. Needless to say, the dresses were as red as the smiles were wide. La Lindsay led this parade of stars, so maybe she is the brightest star of the bunch. She wore a floor length Calvin Klein gown. Rocker Deborah Harry looked fabulous and Patti Hansen, former model and current wife of Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richard, was cheered on by their fashionista daughters Theodora and Alexandra. Broadway star Elaine Stritch appropriately and enthusiastically sang "Ya Gotta Have Heart". And PhatGuru has a special shout out to Eartha Kitt, all 79 years of her - and still a foxy momma! First she brought the love and then she brought the house down. Unforgettable! ABAETE Abaete, the Soho-based line of luxury apparel from designer Laura Poretzky, made a splash on Wednesday. Her line's inspiration is said to be an exotic Japanese flair, something, and we love this, "Bugatti-esque". Bugattis are those long elegant cars from the 1930's, makes us think of a Hollywood with more glamour and less trash. And Abaete delivered. Some beautiful clothes with Japanese styled vests mixing very well with flowing silky skirts. And the night included a beautiful lavender evening gown that won us over. And any one of the models looked like they stepped right out of a Bugatti and onto a red carpet. Well done, Abaete! ALEXANDRE When catwalk, lights, and DJ is not enough, call Alexandre. Alexandre Herchcovitch is, in addition to being a fashion prodigy, a master showman. His was a colorful collection with a flower theme being dominant and he had had Brooklyn's Animal Collective freak-funk band play to the crowd. His collection was over the top and catchy, as Alexandre is unafraid to mix flowers, prints and plaids. Psychedelic. It might not be for everyone, but it works for Alexandre. We couldn't help but snicker when the band, surrounded by giant plastic mushrooms, was singing about hallucinogenic drugs. This is Fashion Week. We're here to have fun. And it was. Thank you, Alexandre. ATIL KUTOGLU The Turkish designer, Atil Kutoglu, enjoyed an enthusiastic throng of admirers at his show for Fashion Week. PhatGuru was hardly prepared, but not surprised, by his crowd. This sort of buzz only generates more interest in the show before it starts. We like anyone who takes chances and Atil obviously is one who does. While the colors he used were traditional browns and greys of autumn, he used unusual prints of cell-like shapes and put them on jackets, coats, pants - everything he could get his hands on, we suppose. These are bold looks. Well done. BETSEY JOHNSON Betsey is crazy. We know this. She knows this. That's what makes her great! Betsey's Fashion Week show was rivaled any of the Broadway shows for entertainment value; in fact, her look is Betsey Does Broadway - a streetwise sexiness with show stopping color! We love it. The music was loud, everyone was happy and then the show went on. What a show. Outrageous colors, audacious designs, and decadent models. Hair in bouffants, outlandish makeup schemes and some cool nods to the 80's, like her strapless black velvet dress with the oversized bow in the back. Betsey's been cheeky like this, it's fun - and no one we know would go full Betsey catwalk in real life, but behind all the fun is her creative genius. I mean there was a leopard print dress that would be fun to wear, stockings were cool, funky coats - things we'd wear, but just not at the same time. That's what makes these shows so great. We'd never see it anywhere else. We hope. CUSTO BARCELONA Designer Custo Dalman described this collection as "sparkling and subversive" - and PhatGuru was there to hold him to his word. The stylings of Custo Barcelona were shown to a packed house and, while we couldn't detect much in the way of subversiveness, Custo Barcelona scored big in the sparkling department. Think high energy, exotic, splashy colors - all memorable. We loved the mini and shawl collar jacket that was decorated with appliqu?flowers, coupled with the high waist black belt and skirt. His velvet and fur Burnt Sienna Jacket with black sleeves...oh...it just made us cry. DRAGANA OGNEJOVIC We were 'standing room only' at the Dragana Ognejovic show in Atelier tent on the opening Friday night. It was the Serbian's first show at New York's Fashion Week ever, so the nervous excitement from the presenters is always appreciated. It's a big deal. Her work is detailed, dramatic and essentially romantic with her artful use of bows and ribbon. She is most comfortable working with the basic black and we were just drooling for some of her ? length coats - just the classy look needed for winter. Elegance in black - always a winner. Her skirts were very nice, too, with a ribboned box pleat and another accordion skirt that won a thumbs up from our team. GUSTAVO ARANGO You know, we see lots of shows at PhatGuru and sometimes, designers help themselves by doing the little things right. The Gustavo Arango was particularly notable for creating a mood to fit the designs - soff, flowing, glamorous. It seemed like they had the right lighting and models to really pull off their look. Arango used colors like teal, slate blue, and sienna in an array of silk creations. We loved his black evening gown with champagne bodice. Bravo. MONIQUE LHUILLIER Boy, did Monique Lhuillier's show wow PhatGuru. She claimed she was inspired by the lush fabrics that are found in interior design books, but we think it could be divine inspiration instead. Possibly more than anything, we love Monique's cocktail dresses and evening gowns. If anyone from PhatGuru would be going to the Academy awards in March (hey, it might happen) it is agreed that Monique Lhuillier might get the call. Lhuillier cut her teeth in bridal and has made the transition to the ready-to-wear market swimmingly. We saw rich colors in her work, "peacock blues", "copper pink", and tempered lavender. Luhuillier seems to introduce color into her designs without letting them overwhelm her pieces - very sophisticated. We felt all grown up just seeing the show, to tell the truth. Silhouettes were played to the waist and for such a dignified manner, Lhuillier can be progressive when playing with shapes. We loved her bell sleeved jackets. Lhuillier is a new mom as of January, a working mom if there is one. We're wondering if expectant motherhood and its effect on her body played into her designs. Clothes so much, none more so than Lhuillier's. Beautiful, feminine, inspired. OAKLEY Fashion means never having to say, "I'm sorry". Right? Hello? Well, anyone looking for an Oakley apology for showing snow wear for a Fall 2006 should probably keep their distance from shows put on by activewear companies like Oakley. Truly progressive sportswear, with an edge. Ski pants, thermal layering (long-johns?), swimwear were all shown superbly by beautiful models. It was different, memorable, and very well received. Good music, too. PETER SOM Peter Som says that right now he designs "graphic, romantic clothes with a clean edge". We'd agree and throw in "gorgeous", "preppy-chic". Peter's work has a lean aesthetic and his shows have lines of continuing statement - where sometimes less says more. This show was indeed clean, subdued and totally put together. Peter's showed pant suits in plush fabrics, the demi-pant suit, and hip displays of lace and patterned hosiery. His cocktail dresses and evening gowns were simply beautiful. Graceful. In silver and black, to die for. ZALDY Sometimes you gotta pay to play and the price of admission for Zaldy on Thursday night was a long wait in the cold outside a rented hall on West 18th St in Manhattan. Worth it? Yes. We're not sure if Hillary Duff had to wait in line, but we got as close up a look at everything she saw, that's for sure - and Zaldy was worth it. Zaldy's fans know his designs borrow heavily (and well) from the 70's. The look for his Fall 2006 is as chic as ever, but the kind of chic we're dying to wear. His playful pieces were browns, greys, and plum - and terrific. Zaldy somehow combines the glamorous with casual, which just circles back to glamorous again. His body-clinging angora dresses and silk jerseys made us drool. And in particular we loved a black hand painted cotton jumpsuit. Perfect for the rock and roll sophisticate. ZANG TOI Zang Toi's 'Uptown Chic at the House of Toi' lived up to its billing. It was the most luxurious line of clothes PhatGuru had the pleasure to review. Both the menswear and the ladies display made ample use of mohair and fur - not just any fur, but mink and silver fox. Honestly, we think that Zang Toi should be commissioned for royalty and billionaires only - it's that opulent. Our favorite look was a charcoal-colored wool flannel jacket with beaded mohair-fringed trims, accompanied with a charcoal wool flannel princess skirt. PhatGuru.com Inc. Queen of Cool PhatPeople@phatguru.com
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Overview of Olympus Fashion Week Fall 2006 Collections
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